Nubra Valley Motorcycle Guide: Khardung La, Sand Dunes & the Road to Turtuk

I have guided this route more times than I can count. My first proper crossing of Khardung La was in 2007, on a cast-iron Bullet 350 with a leaking fork seal and no riding jacket. Back then, the road beyond the pass was loose gravel for most of the descent, the Shyok River crossing near Khalsar had no bridge, and Turtuk was still closed to foreign tourists. Things have changed — the road is better, Turtuk is now open, and the bikes people ride are infinitely superior — but the soul of the Nubra Valley run remains the same. It is one of the most dramatic one-day rides on the planet.

If you're planning to include Nubra in your Ladakh itinerary, this is the guide I give every rider who asks me at our Leh workshop.

The Route: Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardung La

The total distance from Leh to Hunder (the sand dune village in Nubra) is approximately 120 km. This sounds short, but allocate a minimum of 5 to 6 hours for this run, especially if you have acclimatized properly and want to spend time at Khardung La summit.

• Leh to South Pullu Checkpoint (22 km): The first 15 km out of Leh on the Khardung La road is actually very good tarmac, climbing steadily through the lower Ladakh ranges. South Pullu sits at about 3,900 meters and is your first military checkpoint. Have your Inner Line Permit ready — in original, stamped form. This is the point of no return for paperwork problems.
• South Pullu to Khardung La Summit (17 km): This is where the road earns its reputation. The surface alternates between broken blacktop, loose gravel, and occasional ice patches even in July. You gain over 1,600 meters of elevation in just 17 km. Ride slowly in second gear, keep your engine warm, and take frequent breaks. If your bike starts to stutter badly due to the thin air, don't panic — just downshift and keep momentum.
• Khardung La Summit (5,359 meters / 17,582 ft): The top is chaotic with army trucks, tourist vehicles, and selfie-seekers. Spend no more than 20 minutes here. At this altitude, every minute counts — the longer you linger, the greater the chance of a headache setting in. Have your tea, take your photo at the sign, and ride on.
• Khardung La to North Pullu Checkpoint (17 km): The descent from the top is actually more technical than the ascent. The road has more loose gravel sections, and your brakes will be working harder. Stay off the front brake in corners and use engine braking.
• North Pullu to Khalsar to Diskit (44 km): After North Pullu, the valley opens up dramatically. You descend through a narrow gorge carved by the Khardung stream until it meets the Shyok River at Khalsar. From here, you follow the Shyok east toward Diskit, the main town of Nubra. This valley floor riding is simply beautiful — wide riverbed, sand formations on either side, and occasional stretches of perfect blacktop. Diskit has the famous Maitreya Buddha statue and a stunning ancient monastery perched on a cliff. Worth at least an hour of your time.
• Diskit to Hunder (8 km): A short, flat ride along the Shyok. Hunder is where you find Nubra's famous cold desert — proper sand dunes rising up from the river valley. The sight of sand dunes with snow-capped peaks behind them still gets me every time, and I've seen it hundreds of times. This is also where you can ride a Bactrian (double-humped) camel at the dune site, if that's your thing.

The Turtuk Extension: Worth the Extra 90 km?

Turtuk is a Balti village situated 205 km from Leh and sits just 7 km from the Line of Control with Pakistan. It was only opened to civilian tourists in 2010. If you are staying a second night in Nubra, I strongly recommend the ride to Turtuk. The road from Hunder follows the Shyok River west through increasingly dramatic terrain — the valley narrows, the cliffs turn a vivid red-orange, and the river changes from grey silt to a turbulent blue-green.

Turtuk itself is like entering another world. The people are ethnically Balti, speak a Tibetan-related dialect, and the culture, food, and architecture are completely different from the rest of Ladakh. Their apricot orchards, stone houses, and traditional irrigation channels belong in a National Geographic spread. The road is rough — a mix of rock rubble and narrow cliff ledges — and requires confident slow-speed riding. But the reward is a corner of India that very few people have seen.

Note for foreign nationals: Turtuk is accessible on a standard Inner Line Permit. However, there are additional checkpoints closer to the LoC where foreigners may be turned back depending on current security conditions. Always confirm with our office before heading to Turtuk.

Permits, Checkpoints & What to Have Ready

The Nubra Valley circuit requires an Inner Line Permit. You must have it stamped and physically printed (not just shown on your phone screen — the army does not accept digital copies at field checkpoints).

On the Nubra route, you will encounter four major checkpoints: South Pullu, North Pullu, Khalsar, and Diskit. At each one, you will submit a physical copy of your permit. Carry at least 6 printed copies — the checkpoints keep one each and do not return them.

Where to Stay in Nubra Valley

Nubra has grown significantly in accommodation options over the last decade. At the budget end, you have basic guesthouses in Diskit and Hunder (₹800–₹1,500 per room). Mid-range options include the Olthang Camp in Hunder and similar riverside tent camps (₹3,000–₹6,000). For something special, the sand dune-facing tent camps at Hunder offer the experience of sleeping with the dunes and mountains right outside your canvas — book these 2 to 3 months in advance for June and July.

The Road Back: The Shyok Route Alternative

If you are coming back toward Leh and have an extra day, consider the alternative return route via the Shyok Valley road instead of re-crossing Khardung La. This road goes from Khalsar east toward Agham, then south toward Kharu on the Leh-Manali highway. It is longer in distance (~170 km back to Leh) but significantly lower in altitude, less tiring, and passes through some of the most remote and scenic valley riding in Ladakh. The road condition varies — check with our office before committing to this route as certain sections get washed out by the Shyok River after heavy rains.

Final Tips from Our Guides

• Leave Leh no later than 7:30 AM. Army convoys start using Khardung La heavily from 10 AM, and the road becomes slow and dusty. Early morning also means the ice patches are firmer and less likely to be obscured by meltwater.
• Carry a warm layer in your topbox, even if Leh is 25°C when you leave. The Khardung La summit sits at 5,359 meters and can be below 0°C at any time of year. Windchill while riding in thin air at -2°C feels nothing like -2°C at sea level.
• Your mobile phone will likely not work beyond South Pullu. The Shyok Valley has BSNL coverage in patches. Inform family or your hotel before you leave.
• Do not attempt the Khardung La return on Day 1 of your Leh arrival. This is non-negotiable safety advice. Spend at least 48 hours in Leh first.